The North Face guide: models, labels and sizing
The North Face began in 1966 as a climbing store in San Francisco. This guide explains the main models, from the Nuptse to the Denali, how to read the labels, what to check before buying and how the jackets are cut.
In this guide
The North Face started in 1966 as a climbing equipment store in San Francisco and grew into a brand known for down jackets, fleeces and Gore-Tex shells. On a pre-owned The North Face jacket, the model name shows what it was built for, the labels show which line it belongs to and the measurements show how it will sit.
A short history
Douglas and Susie Tompkins opened the first The North Face store in the North Beach neighbourhood of San Francisco in 1966. The half dome logo, based on the rock formation in Yosemite National Park, followed in 1971. The company made its name equipping climbers and expeditions, and its jackets later moved from the mountains into the city.
The models worth knowing
A handful of models define the brand. Knowing them shows what a jacket was built for and how it should be judged.
| Model | What it is | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Nuptse | The boxy down jacket with wide baffles, introduced in 1992 and named after a peak in the Himalaya | Even loft across every baffle |
| Denali | A fleece jacket with reinforced shoulders and chest, dating from the late 1980s | Pilling under the arms and along the sides |
| Mountain Jacket | The Gore-Tex shell built for bad weather, designed so that a Nuptse or a Denali can be zipped in | Seam tape and lining on the inside |
| Himalayan | The heavyweight expedition down jacket | Loft and the condition of the shell fabric |
The 1996 Retro Nuptse is a reissue of the Nuptse in the shape it had in 1996, so a Nuptse with that name is a later reissue and not a jacket from that year.
Reading the label
The interior label shows the brand name and the half dome logo. On most shells a separate tag names the membrane or coating, such as Gore-Tex or HyVent, and some labels name the line, such as Summit Series. The technology name places a jacket in the range: Summit Series is the top technical line, HyVent is the company's own waterproof coating and Apex is a soft shell family. What each name means is explained in The North Face technology names explained.
Label wording and logo styling changed over the decades, so they place a jacket broadly in time. A date is only reliable when the label, the membrane tag, the logo and the model agree with each other.
What to check before buying
- Logo embroidery. The half dome logo and the lettering are stitched densely and evenly, with clean edges.
- Zips. The zips run smoothly along the full length and have real weight to them.
- The membrane tag. The tag matches the model. A Gore-Tex tag belongs on a jacket built with that membrane.
- Baffles on down. The baffles are evenly spaced, the stitching is clean and the fill does not clump into the corners.
- The DWR surface. The water-repellent finish on the outside wears off with use and can be renewed. A shell that wets out on the surface can still have a working membrane.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Sizing and cut
The North Face jackets are cut to be worn over other layers, so most sit roomy. The letter on the label says little about how a specific model sits, because a Nuptse is cut boxier than a close shell of the same size. Each item is measured flat at four points: chest, shoulders, length and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. Comparing those measurements with a jacket that already sits well shows how a new one will sit. The method is in the guide to measuring clothing.
Care
A down jacket keeps its loft when it is stored dry and loosely rather than compressed. The DWR finish on a shell wears off with use and can be renewed with a wash-in or spray-on treatment. The method for each material is in the guide to washing and caring for clothing, and what happens inside a membrane, the seam tape and the insulation is explained in Gore-Tex, DWR and down.
Questions
When was the Nuptse introduced?
The Nuptse down jacket was introduced in 1992 and is named after a peak in the Himalaya. The 1996 Retro Nuptse reissues the version from 1996.
How can a genuine The North Face jacket be recognised?
The logo embroidery, the zips, the labels and the construction agree with each other and with the model. No single detail decides it on its own.
Does The North Face run large?
Most jackets are cut roomy so that they close over other layers. The measurements of the item are a more reliable guide than the letter on the label.
Where to go next
The available items are collected under The North Face, with separate pages for men and women, and in the wider outdoor and jackets and vests collections. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.
The category overview is in the outdoor clothing guide, and other outdoor brands are covered in the Patagonia guide and the Canada Goose guide. Items can be returned within 30 days.
