The outdoor clothing guide: layers, fabrics and condition
Outdoor clothing is built around a base layer, a mid layer and a shell. How the layering system works, which fabrics matter and what to check on condition.
In this guide
Outdoor clothing is built around three layers: a base layer against the skin, a mid layer that keeps warmth in and a shell that stops wind and water. Knowing which layer a jacket or fleece belongs to shows how it should be cut, how it should be judged and what it can be combined with.
The layering system
| Layer | Job | Typical items |
|---|---|---|
| Base layer | Moves moisture away from the skin | Merino or synthetic long sleeves |
| Mid layer | Keeps warmth in | Fleece, insulated jackets, vests |
| Shell | Stops wind and water | Hardshells, soft shells, rain jackets |
Two items from the same layer leave the others uncovered. A fleece and an insulated jacket are both mid layers, so together they still do not keep out rain, while a shell and a fleece cover far more weather. The layer also decides the cut: a mid layer is cut to go under something and a shell is cut to go over everything, even when both carry the same size.
The fabrics that matter
Membranes and shells
A waterproof jacket is a face fabric bonded to a thin membrane, such as Gore-Tex, with a lining on the inside. The membrane stops water and lets vapour out. The outside is treated with a durable water repellent, or DWR, that makes water bead off. The DWR wears off with use and can be renewed, while a failing membrane cannot be repaired.
Down and synthetic insulation
Down gives the most warmth for its weight and can often be restored when it has clumped. Synthetic insulation keeps more of its warmth when wet but compresses permanently over time. In both cases the loft shows how much insulation is left.
Fleece
Fleece has no membrane and no loft to lose. Its main sign of age is pilling, and heavy matting under the arms means the pile has broken down.
What to check on condition
- Seam tape on anything waterproof. Inside the jacket, at the shoulders and the hood, the tape is flat and bonded.
- The lining on anything with a membrane. Bubbling, flaking or a tacky surface means the membrane has separated from the face fabric.
- Loft on anything insulated. Held to the light, the fill is even across every baffle.
- Pilling on fleece. Light pilling is normal, matting under the arms is not.
- Zips everywhere. That includes storm flaps, pit zips and pocket zips.
- The DWR. On a pre-owned shell, renewing the DWR is normal maintenance, not a fault.
Each of these checks is explained in more detail in Gore-Tex, DWR and down.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Sizing and cut
Outdoor clothing is cut for layering, so most of it sits roomy. A shell has to close over a fleece, and a fleece has to close over a base layer. A fleece made as a mid layer and a fleece made to be worn on the outside can have the same size and still measure differently. Each item is measured flat at four points: chest, shoulders, length and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. Comparing those measurements with a jacket that already layers well shows how a new one will sit. The method is in the guide to measuring clothing.
Brand guides
The main outdoor brands each have their own guide: the The North Face guide, with The North Face technology names explained, the Patagonia guide and the Canada Goose guide. How to recognise a genuine Arc'teryx is set out in How to spot fake Arc'teryx, and the warmest jackets of four brands are compared in Winter jackets compared.
Questions
What is the layering system?
The layering system combines three layers: a base layer that moves moisture away from the skin, a mid layer that keeps warmth in and a shell that stops wind and water. Layers can be added or removed as the weather changes.
Which layer is the safest to buy pre-owned?
Fleece is the simplest to judge, because it has no membrane, no seam tape and no loft to lose. Its condition is visible on the surface.
Why does a waterproof jacket get wet on the outside?
When the DWR has worn off, the face fabric absorbs water. The membrane underneath can still keep water out, and the DWR can be renewed.
Where to go next
The available items are collected in the outdoor collection, with separate pages for men and women, and by brand under The North Face, Patagonia, Canada Goose and Arc'teryx. Items can be returned within 30 days.
