How to wash and care for clothing by material

Most clothes are best washed cold, inside out and less often than habit suggests, and dried without heat. Beyond that, each material has its own rules, and the sections below go through the most common ones.

At leverene, every item is professionally cleaned before it is added to the store, and any imperfection is stated in the condition description of the item. After that, how long it lasts depends on how it is washed and stored.

Wool knitwear

Wool does not need frequent washing. Airing it after wear removes most odour without a wash cycle. When it does need cleaning, it is washed by hand in cold water with a wool detergent, or on the wool cycle of a machine inside a mesh bag. Wool is never wrung. It is laid flat on a towel to dry and reshaped gently while it is damp, because a wet wool jumper that is hung up stretches permanently under its own weight. Wool is stored folded, not on a hanger, and cedar blocks keep moths away without the smell of mothballs. Washing wool without shrinking it is explained in how to wash and care for wool knitwear.

Leather jackets

Leather does not go in a washing machine. Dirt is wiped off with a damp cloth and mild soap, and the jacket dries in the air away from direct heat, since a radiator or direct sun cracks leather over time. A leather balm applied about every six months keeps it supple. Leather that is never conditioned dries out and cracks at stress points such as the elbows and cuffs. A strong odour fades faster when the jacket hangs in fresh air for a few days than with any product.

Wax jackets

A wax jacket is never dry cleaned, because the solvents strip the wax coating. It is cleaned with cold water and a soft brush or sponge only, without detergent. Over time the wax wears thin at friction points such as the cuffs, the collar and the front where the zip closes, and the jacket needs re-waxing. That is routine maintenance and takes an evening: the jacket is warmed slightly, the reproofing wax is applied sparingly with a cloth and the jacket cures for 24 hours somewhere warm. Cleaning and re-waxing are explained step by step in how to care for waxed cotton.

Technical outerwear

The membrane inside a Gore-Tex shell lasts for years. What wears out is the DWR (durable water repellent) coating on the outer fabric: when water stops beading and starts soaking in, the coating has worn. A shell is washed with a technical wash product instead of regular detergent, which clogs the membrane, and tumble dried on low heat, which reactivates the DWR coating. A heavily worn coating is restored with a wash-in or spray-on reproofing treatment. The terms are explained in Gore-Tex, down and DWR.

Denim

Denim is washed as little as possible, since less washing lets the fading develop naturally. When it does need washing, it is turned inside out, washed cold and kept out of the dryer. Heat sets creases and can shrink denim unpredictably. Small marks are spot cleaned instead of running a full wash cycle.

Nylon and sportswear

Track jackets and nylon shells are machine washed cold on a gentle cycle, inside out, to protect printed logos and embroidery from friction. They dry in the air rather than in a tumble dryer, because heat can warp screen prints and shrink some nylon blends. Fabric softener leaves a residue on technical and coated fabrics and is best avoided.

Cotton sweatshirts and T-shirts

Cotton is the most forgiving material, but it still benefits from some care. It is washed cold and inside out and dried in the air when possible. Tumble drying is the biggest single cause of shrinkage in cotton.

The general rule

When in doubt, wash less and wash colder. The fastest way to damage a fabric is aggressive washing with hot water, high spin speeds and harsh detergent. Gentle and infrequent care keeps an item the way it was when it arrived. Storing wool, down and waxed cotton between seasons is covered in how to store clothes.

Frequently asked questions

How often should clothes be washed?

Airing often removes odour without a wash. Washing is needed when there is visible dirt, or after several wears for items worn close to the skin.

Can a wax jacket be dry cleaned?

Dry cleaning solvents strip the wax coating. A wax jacket is cleaned with cold water and a soft brush only.

Does the Gore-Tex membrane wear out?

The membrane itself lasts for years. What wears out is the DWR coating on the surface, which can be restored with a wash-in or spray-on treatment.

How often does a wax jacket need re-waxing?

Most jackets need it every year or two, depending on use.

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