Pre-owned designer clothing: a buying guide

Pre-owned designer clothing comes from the same houses as new designer clothing, from Burberry and Prada to Armani and Yves Saint Laurent. What differs is the history of each item. This guide explains how to read the label, how to judge condition and size, and what to expect from the price.

Designer labels and their lines

Most designer houses sell several lines under one name, and the label inside an item shows which line it belongs to. The line says more about the construction and the original price than the name of the house alone.

• Armani. Giorgio Armani is the main line. Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans were introduced in 1981 as younger lines, and Armani Exchange followed in 1991 as the most accessible line. Each line is explained in more detail in Armani lines explained.
• Prada. The main line uses the triangle logo or a woven label. Prada Sport, introduced in 1997 and later called Linea Rossa, is the technical line with a red stripe in its logo.
• Yves Saint Laurent. The ready-to-wear line was renamed Saint Laurent in 2012, so a label that reads Yves Saint Laurent points to an item from before that change.

In the store, the line is part of the item title, for example Emporio Armani or Armani Jeans.

Condition

Every item carries a condition label, and any imperfection is stated in the condition description of the item. On designer clothing, three points deserve a closer look.

• The lining. On coats and jackets the lining wears first under the arms and at the centre back.
• The hardware. Buckles, zips and buttons on designer outerwear are often specific to the house, so a replaced button or a missing belt changes the item.
• Alterations. Tailored items can have been taken in or shortened by a previous owner. Stitching at the centre back seam, the sleeve heads or the waist that does not match the rest of the garment shows an alteration.

Size

Letter and numeric sizes have no single standard, and cuts differ between houses, lines and production years. An altered item also no longer matches the size on its label. Measurements are therefore a better guide than the label.

Each item is measured flat at four points: across the chest from armpit to armpit, the length, across the shoulders and the length of the sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. On a blazer or a coat, the shoulder measurement comes first, because the shoulders are the hardest part of a jacket to alter. The method is explained in the guide to measuring clothing.

Authenticity

Counterfeits concentrate on items with a recognisable logo or pattern and a high retail price. On a genuine item, the label, the care label, the construction and the hardware all match the same house and the same period. Six checks that apply to every house are set out in how to tell if designer clothing is real.

Separate authentication guides cover Burberry, Canada Goose, Stone Island, Ralph Lauren and Arc'teryx.

How each item is prepared

Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.

Price

Prices are set per item, up to 80% below the original retail price. The comparison is made with the retail price of the same line, so an Emporio Armani jacket is compared with Emporio Armani and not with Giorgio Armani. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.

The houses and their guides

• Burberry, with the Burberry guide.
• Canada Goose, with the Canada Goose guide.
• Stone Island and C.P. Company, with the Stone Island guide.
• Armani, Prada, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

The full range is on the high-end designer clothing page, for men and women. For buying pre-owned clothing online in general, read how to buy pre-owned clothing online.

Frequently asked questions

Is pre-owned designer clothing genuine?

Every item is authenticated through LegitApp before it is added to the store. On a genuine item, the label, the care label, the construction and the hardware all match the same house and the same period.

How does the size of designer clothing compare between houses?

Sizes are not standardised between houses or lines. The four measurements of each item are a more reliable guide than the size on the label.

What does Yves Saint Laurent on the label mean?

The ready-to-wear line has been called Saint Laurent since 2012, so a label that reads Yves Saint Laurent points to an item from before that change.

Items can be returned within 30 days.