How to tell if designer clothing is real: six checks
Six checks that work across designer brands, on weight, buttonholes, seams, hardware and labels, with where counterfeits concentrate and what a price shows.
In this guide
A genuine designer item is recognised by details that agree with each other: the label, the care label, the construction and the hardware all point to the same house and the same period. This guide sets out six checks that work across brands, where counterfeits concentrate and what a price does and does not show.
Construction is stronger evidence than branding
A label can be copied and sewn into any garment. Cloth weight, lining, buttonholes and seam finishing are much harder to copy, because making them properly costs close to what making the genuine item costs. A convincing logo on a garment whose construction does not match the standard of the house is therefore a reason for doubt, and the garment itself says more than its branding.
Where counterfeits concentrate
Counterfeits are not spread evenly across brands and items. Three factors predict where they appear most.
A recognisable visual signature. A pattern, a badge or a logo that is visible from a distance attracts copies, such as the Burberry check, the Stone Island badge and the Canada Goose disc.
A high retail price. The wider the gap between what a copy costs to make and what it can be sold for, the more often an item is copied.
Scarcity. Items that are rare are easier to copy convincingly, because buyers have fewer genuine examples to compare against.
A plain designer overcoat is therefore a lower risk than the most recognisable item of the same house.
Six checks that work across brands
- The weight. Designer outerwear is heavy, because the cloth, the lining and the hardware all add weight. Copies are often lighter, because these are the places where a counterfeiter saves.
- The buttonholes. Dense, even and tightly finished stitching is expensive to produce. Loose, sparse or fraying buttonholes are a common sign of a copy on tailoring.
- The seams. The stitch density should be consistent along the whole seam, with no skipped stitches. Where a pattern crosses a seam, it should continue instead of jumping.
- The hardware. Zips, buckles and buttons should have weight, clean edges and no rough spots. Many houses use branded hardware, and the branding should be sharp under magnification.
- The label. On a woven label the lettering is formed in the fabric and keeps its shape as it ages. Blurred, thick or shallow lettering is a common sign of a copy. The care label is checked for the material, the country of manufacture and the languages.
- Whether everything agrees. The label, the care label, the construction and the hardware should all point to the same period and the same standard. A mismatch between these parts is the clearest signal.
Checks for individual brands
The general checks narrow the question down. Each house also has details of its own, which are covered in separate guides. Lines, condition and sizing across the houses are explained in the designer buying guide.
- Spotting fake Burberry
- Spotting fake Stone Island
- Spotting fake Canada Goose
- Spotting fake Ralph Lauren
- Spotting fake Arc'teryx
What a price shows about authenticity
A price far below the market is a reason to ask questions. The cause can be a copy, but also a condition that is worse than the photographs suggest, an altered garment or a seller who does not know what the item is. A market price is not proof of authenticity either.
Alterations and the size on the label
Tailored garments can have been altered by a previous owner, for example taken in at the waist or shortened at the sleeve. An altered garment can be entirely genuine, but the size on its label no longer describes it. Stitching at the centre back seam, the sleeve heads or the waist that does not match the rest shows an alteration, and measurements are then a more reliable guide than the label.
How authentication works at leverene
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
LegitApp works with resale businesses to verify branded clothing, and its authentication covers the details described above.
Where to start
Browse the designer clothing range for men and women, or the pages for Armani, Prada, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. For buying pre-owned clothing online in general, read how to buy pre-owned clothing online.
Frequently asked questions
How can fake designer clothing be recognised?
The construction gives a copy away sooner than the logo. Cloth weight, buttonholes, seams, hardware and the woven label should all match the standard of the house and agree with each other.
Does a low price mean an item is fake?
A price far below the market is a reason to ask questions, but the cause can also be the condition or an alteration. A market price is not proof of authenticity either.
Can an altered designer item be genuine?
An altered item can be entirely genuine. The size on its label no longer describes it, so the measurements are the better guide.
Items can be returned within 30 days.
