Carhartt jackets compared: Active, Detroit, chore coat and vest
The Active has a hood, the Detroit a corduroy collar and a short cut, the chore coat a corduroy collar, a button front and a longer cut, and the vest no sleeves. The four Carhartt jackets side by side, with where each shows wear first.
In this guide
The four main Carhartt jackets differ first at the neck and the front. The Active has a hood and a zip, the Detroit has a corduroy collar and a zip and sits at the waist, the chore coat has a corduroy collar and a button front and is longer, and the vest has no sleeves.
This article sets the models side by side, explains what each one is and shows where each tends to show wear first.
The four models side by side
| Feature | Active jacket | Detroit jacket | Chore coat | Vest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neck | Attached hood, often with a drawstring | Corduroy collar | Corduroy collar | Collar or hood |
| Front | Full zip | Zip, with a zipped chest pocket | Buttons | Zip or press studs |
| Pockets | Hand pockets or a kangaroo pocket | Angled welt pockets | Patch pockets, usually four | Hand pockets |
| Lining | Quilted, fleece or sherpa, or flannel in denim versions | Blanket or flannel | Blanket lining on many versions | Quilted or sherpa |
| Length and hem | Hip length, rib-knit cuffs and hem | Short, adjustable tabs at the waist | Longest of the four, below the hip | Hip length, no sleeves |
The Active jacket
The Active is a hooded work jacket with a full zip, usually in duck canvas. Linings vary from quilted nylon to fleece and sherpa, and denim versions are often lined with flannel. The rib-knit cuffs and hem close it at the wrist and the waist.
The hood is the clearest difference from the Detroit, and on a lined Active it adds bulk at the neck. Wear shows first at the zip, the lining of the hood and the rib knit at the cuffs. Active jackets are collected under Carhartt Active jackets.
The Detroit jacket
The Detroit is the shortest of the jackets, with a corduroy collar, a zip front, a zipped chest pocket, angled welt pockets and a blanket or flannel lining. Adjustable tabs at the hem draw it in at the waist.
Wear concentrates at the collar, the front zip and the corners of the pockets. The model, its tags and its versions are covered in the Carhartt Detroit jacket guide, and the jackets are collected under Carhartt Detroit jackets.
The chore coat
The chore coat is the oldest of the four. Carhartt advertised it as early as 1917. It has a corduroy collar, a button front and patch pockets, usually four, and it is longer than the Detroit and the Active. Many versions are lined with a blanket lining, and canvas and denim versions both exist.
The longer cut makes it sit more like a light coat than a short work jacket. The pocket corners and the button placket take the most stress. Chore coats are collected under Carhartt chore coats.
The vest
The vest is a sleeveless layer in canvas, with a collar or a hood, a zip or press-stud front and a quilted or sherpa lining. It is worn over a hoodie, a flannel shirt or a jumper. Wear shows first at the front closure and the pocket edges.
Which model suits what
| What is needed | Model |
|---|---|
| A hood and a jacket for everyday wear | Active jacket |
| A short jacket with a collar | Detroit jacket |
| A longer jacket that sits like a light coat | Chore coat |
| A layer without sleeves | Vest |
The same checks apply to all of them: the zip or the buttons, the cuffs and the seams at the pocket corners. Duck canvas tends to hold up, and the fastenings and stress points are where wear shows first.
Sizing across the models
All four are cut to be worn over other clothing, and the size on the label differs between eras and models. The model can be chosen for what it is, and the individual jacket on its measurements. Every jacket is measured at four points: chest, length, shoulders and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. The method is explained in the Carhartt size guide.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Where to go next
All models are collected under Carhartt jackets, with pages for men and women. Carhartt WIP makes its own versions of several models, which are explained in Carhartt or Carhartt WIP: what is the difference. How to date a jacket from its tags is set out in Reading Carhartt tags, and the brand as a whole in the Carhartt guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between the Carhartt Active and Detroit jackets?
The Active has an attached hood and rib-knit cuffs and hem, and the Detroit has a corduroy collar and adjustable tabs at the waist. The Detroit is also shorter.
Is the Carhartt chore coat lined?
Many Carhartt chore coats have a blanket lining. The item description states the lining of each coat.
Which Carhartt jacket is the longest?
The chore coat is the longest of the four models and sits below the hip. The Detroit is the shortest and sits at the waist.
