Carhartt size guide: jackets and trousers
Carhartt jackets are cut large to go over several layers, and the size on the label differs between eras and models. Why Carhartt runs large, when a size down makes sense, how to choose a jacket by measurement and how trousers are sized.
In this guide
Carhartt jackets are cut large, because they were designed to go over several layers of work clothing. The size on the label also differs between eras and models, so the chest measurement of the jacket is a more reliable guide than the letter.
This guide explains why Carhartt runs large, when taking a size down makes sense, how to choose a jacket by measurement and how trousers are sized.
Why Carhartt runs large
Workwear sizing is functional. A Carhartt work jacket was designed to go over a hooded sweatshirt, a flannel shirt and a thermal layer, on a body that has to move freely in it.
That produces a jacket that is generous through the chest and short in the body relative to its width. Worn over a T-shirt, as it often is now, the jacket looks oversized, because the layers it was drawn around are missing.
Taking a size down in Carhartt
The usual advice is to take a size down, and that advice is roughly half right. It works for a closer cut over a T-shirt, and it works less well for a jacket that should go over a hoodie.
The advice also assumes that the letter means the same thing on every jacket. Across decades of production it does not: a size L from one era or model can measure several centimetres wider or narrower than a size L from another. Choosing by measurement avoids that problem altogether.
How to choose a Carhartt jacket by measurement
The reliable method uses a jacket that already fits.
- Choose a jacket that already layers the way the new one should, not a T-shirt.
- Lay it flat and measure straight across the chest from armpit seam to armpit seam.
- Adjust that number for the cut that is wanted, using the table below.
- Compare the result with the chest measurement of the Carhartt jacket, then check the length, the shoulders and the sleeve.
| Cut wanted | Chest of the Carhartt jacket compared with the reference jacket |
|---|---|
| Close, over a T-shirt or shirt | About the same |
| Over a hoodie | 3 to 5 cm wider |
| Oversized | 8 to 10 cm wider |
Length matters second. Carhartt jackets are cut short relative to their width, so a jacket that fits across the chest may sit higher on the body than expected. Every jacket is measured at four points: chest, length, shoulders and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. The full measuring method is in the guide to measuring clothing.
Tall sizes and letters on the label
Carhartt jackets are labelled with letters, from S upwards. Tall versions have a T after the letter, such as LT or XLT, and are cut longer in the body and the sleeve than the regular size with the same letter.
A Tall jacket is worth considering when regular Carhartt jackets fit across the chest but stop too high at the waist or the wrist. The length and sleeve measurements of the individual jacket show whether it is long enough.
Trousers and double-knee work trousers
Carhartt trousers are easier to size than the jackets, because they are labelled in inches rather than letters: the waist first and the inside leg second, such as 34x32. Two points still apply.
Denim and duck canvas both shrink. On an older pair most of that has already happened, but a pair that has seen little use can still shrink on a first hot wash.
Double-knee trousers feel different through the thigh. The second layer of cloth at the knee adds bulk and stiffness. They feel less forgiving until they are worn in, although they are not cut tighter.
Work trousers are collected under Carhartt work trousers.
How wear changes the way a jacket sits
New duck canvas is stiff and holds its shape. Worn duck canvas softens, drapes and sits closer to the body without measuring smaller. A jacket that has been worked in can therefore feel a size smaller than an unworn one with identical measurements, which is worth knowing when comparing two jackets.
Carhartt WIP sizing
Carhartt WIP is a separate European company that cuts its clothing for everyday wear rather than for several work layers, and the cut differs between its models. A Carhartt WIP jacket and a Carhartt jacket with the same letter can therefore measure quite differently. The two companies are compared in Carhartt or Carhartt WIP: what is the difference.
How items are prepared
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Jackets are collected under Carhartt jackets, with pages for men and women. The jacket models are compared in Carhartt jackets compared, the Detroit jacket has its own guide, and the wider picture is in the Carhartt guide.
Frequently asked questions
Does Carhartt run big?
Carhartt jackets are cut generously through the chest and short in the body, because they were made to go over several layers. Over a T-shirt they look oversized.
Should Carhartt be bought a size smaller?
A size down works for a closer cut over a T-shirt. Because the letter differs between eras and models, the chest measurement of the jacket is the better guide.
What do the numbers on Carhartt trousers mean?
The first number is the waist and the second is the inside leg, both in inches. A pair labelled 34x32 has a 34 inch waist and a 32 inch inside leg.
What does the T in a Carhartt size mean?
The T stands for Tall. A Tall jacket is cut longer in the body and the sleeve than the regular size with the same letter.
