Preppy style and classic clothing: a buying guide

Classic clothing is built around garments that change little from one decade to the next: the Oxford shirt, knitwear, the polo shirt and the waxed or quilted jacket. Because the designs stay the same, a pre-owned classic item is judged mainly by its condition, its cloth and its measurements.

What the classic and preppy style is

The classic style draws on American and British clothing traditions: button-down shirts, cable knits, chinos, polo shirts and country jackets. The preppy look is its most recognisable form, named after the preparatory schools of the American east coast and the universities their students went on to. Brands such as Ralph Lauren, Lacoste and Barbour are closely linked with it.

Why classic clothing suits pre-owned well

An Oxford button-down made years ago is the same garment as one made now, so the condition of an item matters more than its age. Many classic materials also improve with use. Oxford cloth softens with washing and the collar roll settles, lambswool relaxes into shape, and waxed cotton takes on a patina. Prices are set per item, up to 80% below the original retail price.

Four classic garments and what to check

• The Oxford shirt. The collar points and cuff edges wear before the body does, and fraying there is hard to repair. Holding the shirt up to the light shows the weight of the cloth. Shirts are collected under shirts and Ralph Lauren button-up shirts.
• Knitwear. Crewnecks, V-necks, cable knits and cardigans thin at the elbows and underarms first. The ribbing should still spring back, and the shoulders should not have stretched from storage on a hanger. Knitwear is under jumpers and knitwear.
• The polo shirt. The collar usually gives way before anything else, so it should stand rather than curl. Polo shirts are under polo and rugby shirts. Collar, piqué and cut are explained in the polo shirt guide.
• The waxed jacket. Waxed cotton needs re-waxing from time to time. A jacket that has gone dry and pale is due for re-waxing, which is normal maintenance and not damage. The seams, the corduroy collar and the zip are checked as well. Cleaning and re-waxing are explained step by step in how to care for waxed cotton.

Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.

Authenticity in classic clothing

The best-known classic brands are also among the most copied. The checks for Ralph Lauren are set out in How to spot fake Ralph Lauren, and the brand as a whole in the Ralph Lauren guide. Every item is authenticated through LegitApp before it is added to the store.

Classic sizing

The size on the label does not always match the measurements, because cuts differ between lines and periods, and knitwear can stretch with wear. A classic fit is fuller through the body than a slim fit with the same letter. Every item is measured at four points: chest, length, shoulders and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. Comparing those measurements with a garment that already fits is the reliable method, explained in the guide to measuring clothing.

How classic items combine

Classic items are made to work together, so a few of them already form a wardrobe. Two Oxford shirts in white and blue, a navy crewneck and one jacket combine in almost every way. Classic items also layer with the rest of the store: a knit under a Burberry trench coat, or over a plain workwear item.

Where to start

An Oxford shirt or a crewneck jumper in a plain colour is a practical first classic item. The full range is under classic, with separate pages for men and women. Buying pre-owned clothing online in general is covered in How to buy pre-owned clothing online. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.

Frequently asked questions

What is the preppy style?

Preppy is a classic American style named after American preparatory schools: Oxford shirts, cable knits, polo shirts, chinos and loafers. Ralph Lauren and Lacoste are among the brands most associated with it.

What is an Oxford shirt?

An Oxford shirt is a shirt made from Oxford cloth, a basket-weave cotton with a slightly textured surface. It usually has a button-down collar and softens with every wash.

Does a waxed jacket need re-waxing?

Waxed cotton slowly loses its wax with wear and cleaning. A jacket that looks dry or pale is re-waxed, which restores both its look and its resistance to rain.

How should a classic jumper fit?

The shoulder seam sits at the edge of the shoulder, and the ribbed hem rests at or just below the belt. A shirt collar should fit under the neckline without bunching.