The polo shirt: a buying guide
A polo shirt is judged first by its collar and then by its knit. Where the polo shirt comes from, the five checks on a pre-owned polo shirt, how piqué, jersey and interlock differ, how the sizes work and how to keep the collar in shape.
In this guide
A good polo shirt is judged first by its collar, then by its knit. On a pre-owned polo shirt, a collar that stands, a piqué with body, a flat placket and clean embroidery show that the shirt has kept its shape.
Where the polo shirt comes from
The polo shirt began as a tennis shirt. In the early 1930s the French tennis player René Lacoste produced a short-sleeved knitted shirt in petit piqué, replacing the woven long-sleeved shirts that players wore at the time. In 1972 Ralph Lauren introduced its own knitted sport shirt with the polo player logo, which became one of the best-known versions of the garment. The history of Ralph Lauren is covered in the Ralph Lauren guide. The history of Lacoste is told in the Lacoste guide.
Why the collar matters most
The collar is the structural part of a polo shirt. A collar that stands makes the shirt look neat. A collar that curls at the points or lies flat against the shoulders makes the same shirt look tired, whatever the condition of the body. A collapsed collar is hard to restore, because the knit has lost its structure and not only its shape.
Polo shirts are worn against the skin and washed often, which puts the collar under strain. With a shirt in the hand, the test is simple: stand the collar up and let go. It should hold.
Four more checks on a polo shirt
- The piqué. The knit should have body. Held up to the light, a shirt that lets a lot of light through has thinned.
- The placket. The buttons should match and sit firmly, and the placket itself should lie flat rather than ripple.
- The hem and side vents. These are checked for small splits at the top of the vent.
- The embroidery. A logo should be dense and tightly stitched, with clean edges. The brand-specific checks for Ralph Lauren are in How to spot fake Ralph Lauren.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Piqué, jersey and interlock
Three knits are common in polo shirts, and each wears differently.
| Knit | What it is like | How it ages |
|---|---|---|
| Piqué | Textured, with a small raised pattern that lets air through | Holds its shape well and thins slowly |
| Jersey | Smooth and soft, like a T-shirt | Drapes closely and shows wear sooner |
| Interlock | Smooth on both sides, denser and heavier | Keeps its shape longest |
Ralph Lauren calls the piqué of its classic polo shirt mesh. A heavier knit lasts longer and wears warmer, while a lighter knit is more comfortable in summer and shows its age sooner.
Polo shirt sizing
The size on the label says little about how a polo shirt will sit, because the cut differs between brands, product lines and years. A classic cut is fuller through the body, a slim cut closer, and the same letter can mean several centimetres of difference across the chest.
Every item is measured at four points: chest, length, shoulders and sleeve. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. The chest is measured flat from armpit seam to armpit seam. Comparing those measurements with a polo shirt that already fits is more reliable than the letter on the label. The method is explained in the guide to measuring clothing.
Caring for a polo shirt
Three habits help a polo shirt keep its collar. It is washed cool, it is not tumble dried, and it is hung to dry by the shoulders instead of folded over a line, which sets a crease across the body. The collar can be smoothed into shape while the shirt is still damp. More detail by material is in the guide to washing and caring for clothing.
Where to start
Polo shirts are collected under polo and rugby shirts, with separate pages for men and women, and Ralph Lauren polo shirts under Ralph Lauren polo shirts. The wider style is collected under classic. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.
Frequently asked questions
What is piqué?
Piqué is a cotton knit with a small raised, textured pattern. It lets air through and holds its shape, which is why it became the standard knit for polo shirts.
How should a polo shirt fit?
The shoulder seam sits at the edge of the shoulder, and the sleeves end around the middle of the upper arm. The body is long enough to be worn untucked without covering the seat.
Why does the collar of a polo shirt curl?
The collar is a knit, and heat, frequent washing and tumble drying make it lose its structure. Washing cool and drying the shirt hanging, with the collar smoothed flat, slows that down.
What is the difference between a polo shirt and a rugby shirt?
A polo shirt is a short-sleeved knit with a soft knitted collar. A rugby shirt is usually long-sleeved and heavier, with a firm woven collar and rubber or plastic buttons.
