How to Wash and Care for Pre-Owned Clothing by Material
Clothing lasts when it is looked after. A material-by-material guide to washing and caring for wool, leather, wax jackets, technical outerwear, denim and cotton.
In this guide
Clothing lasts when it is looked after. Every item is professionally cleaned before it reaches the store, and after that its condition depends on how it is washed and stored. The sections below go through the most common materials.
Wool knitwear
Wool does not need frequent washing. Airing it out after wear removes most odour without a wash cycle. When it does need cleaning, hand wash in cold water with a wool-specific detergent, or use the wool cycle of a machine inside a mesh bag. Never wring it. Lay it flat on a towel to dry, reshaping it gently while it is damp. A wet wool sweater that is hung up stretches permanently under its own weight. Store wool folded, not on a hanger, and use cedar blocks rather than mothballs to keep insects away without the smell.
Leather jackets
Leather does not go in a washing machine. Wipe off dirt with a damp cloth and mild soap, then let the jacket air dry away from direct heat. A radiator or direct sun cracks leather over time. Condition it about every six months with a proper leather balm to keep it supple. Leather that is never conditioned dries out and cracks at stress points such as the elbows and cuffs. If a jacket has a strong odour, hanging it in fresh air for a few days does more than any product.
Wax jackets
Never dry clean a wax jacket. The solvents strip the wax coating entirely. Clean it with cold water and a soft brush or sponge only, without detergent. Over time the wax wears thin at friction points such as the cuffs, the collar and the front where the zip closes, and the jacket needs re-waxing, which is routine maintenance. A tin of proper reproofing wax costs around €15 to €20 and the process takes an evening. First warm the jacket slightly, then apply the wax sparingly with a cloth, and let it cure for 24 hours somewhere warm.
Technical outerwear
The membrane inside a Gore-Tex shell lasts for years and does not need special care. What wears out is the DWR (durable water repellent) coating on the outer fabric. When water stops beading and starts soaking in, the coating has worn. Wash with a technical wash-in product, not regular detergent, which clogs the membrane, and tumble dry on low heat, which reactivates the DWR coating. For a heavily worn coating, a wash-in or spray-on reproofing treatment restores water repellency for a few euros.
Denim
Wash denim as little as possible, since less washing lets the fading develop naturally. When it does need washing, turn it inside out, use cold water and skip the dryer. Heat sets creases and can shrink denim unpredictably. Spot-clean stains rather than running a full wash cycle for minor marks.
Nylon and sportswear
Machine wash track jackets and shells cold on a gentle cycle, inside out, to protect printed logos and embroidery from friction. Air dry rather than tumble dry. Heat can warp screen prints and shrink some nylon blends. Avoid fabric softener, which leaves a residue on technical and coated fabrics.
Cotton sweatshirts and T-shirts
Cotton is the most forgiving material, but it still benefits from some care. Wash cold and inside out, and air dry when possible. Tumble drying is the biggest single cause of shrinkage in cotton.
General rule
When in doubt, wash less and wash colder. The fastest way to damage a fabric is aggressive washing: hot water, high spin speeds and harsh detergent. Gentle and infrequent care keeps an item looking the way it did when it arrived.
Browse the full collection, or read how every item is prepared before it ships.
Frequently asked questions
How often should pre-owned clothing be washed?
Airing out often removes odour without a wash. Wash only when there is visible dirt, or after several wears for close-fitting items.
Can a wax jacket be dry cleaned?
Dry cleaning solvents strip the wax coating. A wax jacket is cleaned with cold water and a soft brush only.
Does the Gore-Tex membrane wear out?
The membrane itself lasts for years. What wears out is the DWR coating on the surface, which can be restored with a wash-in or spray-on treatment.
How often does a wax jacket need re-waxing?
Most jackets need it every year or two, depending on use. Re-waxing is routine maintenance.