Barbour: a buying guide to the Bedale and the Beaufort
Bedale, Beaufort and waxed cotton. The cuffs wear first. Machine washing or dry cleaning strips the wax permanently.
In this guide
Barbour is the British company known for waxed cotton jackets such as the Bedale and the Beaufort. This guide covers the history, the two main jackets, what to check before buying, the sizing and how waxed cotton is cared for.
Brand history
John Barbour started the business in South Shields in 1894, selling oilskins to the men working the docks and the boats on the Tyne. The company stayed with waterproofed cotton while others moved to rubber and then to synthetics.
Two jackets define the modern range. Both were designed by Dame Margaret Barbour.
| Model | Year | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| Bedale | 1980 | The shorter jacket. It was designed for riding, so it sits at the hip and has a two-way zip that opens from the bottom. It has a corduroy collar and bellows pockets. |
| Beaufort | 1983 | The longer jacket, inspired by French shooting jackets. It reaches mid-thigh and has a large rear pocket. It reads as a country coat. |
The company holds royal warrants granted in 1974, 1982 and 1987.
The cuffs wear first
On waxed cotton the cuff is where the fabric flexes hardest and rubs against everything, so the wax wears through there before it wears through anywhere else.
There are two practical consequences.
When inspecting a waxed jacket, start at the cuffs. Look for the dull, pale, slightly fibrous look of cotton that has lost its wax. If the rest of the jacket looks similar, it has not been re-proofed in a long time. If only the cuffs look like that, it is normal wear.
Worn cuffs are usually fixable. Re-waxing restores the surface. Cotton that has actually torn is a repair job rather than a maintenance job. Barbour operates a repair service for this.
Sizing runs large
These jackets were cut to go over a jumper and a shirt. That gives an oversized silhouette, which a waxed jacket wears well.
Buying on the measurement rather than the letter works best. Measure a jacket that is already worn over a jumper, from armpit seam to armpit seam. Then compare. The method is in the pit to pit guide on how to measure clothing.
What to check before buying
- Cuffs and elbows. The wax wears through at these points first, as described above.
- The corduroy collar. Check the nap. A flattened, shiny collar is a wear point that shows in photographs.
- The main zip. On a Bedale it should run in both directions. Test the bottom slider specifically, because it is used less and tends to seize.
- Studs and press fasteners. They should close with a positive click rather than sitting loose.
- The lining. Older linings can go brittle at the shoulder. This is repairable but worth knowing about before deciding.
- The smell. Waxed cotton has a distinct oily smell, which is expected. A musty smell is not expected and points to damp storage.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works. Prices are set per item, up to 80% below the original retail price.
Washing and dry cleaning
Barbour advises against machine washing and dry cleaning a waxed jacket, because both remove the wax from the cotton. The outside is cleaned with cold water and a sponge, and the jacket is re-waxed with a dressing for waxed cotton when the fabric starts to look dull. Cleaning and re-waxing are explained step by step in how to care for waxed cotton.
Related reading and collections
The wider outdoor context is covered in the guide to outdoor gear.
The current range is in Barbour and Barbour jackets. Since this brand has no separate men's and women's collections, start from men's clothing or women's clothing, or browse the neighbouring jackets and vests, coats and classic clothing.
Items can be returned within 30 days.
