The workwear guide: brands, fabrics and what to check

Workwear is clothing that was made for manual labour: jackets, trousers, overalls and shirts in heavy cotton, reinforced where the work puts strain on them. Because it was built to a specification rather than to a price, pre-owned workwear often has years of wear left, and the right item is chosen by its brand, its cloth and its measurements.

What workwear is

Workwear began as clothing for railway workers, farmhands, builders and mechanics. The buyer needed it to last and did not want to buy it twice, so the makers chose heavy cloth, strong seams and hardware that could take a load. Those choices are still visible on a work jacket or a pair of work trousers today.

Three features define the category. The cloth is heavy, and it thins with use before it tears. The construction is reinforced at the points that carry load, usually with triple stitching, bar tacks and rivets. The hardware is chosen for function, so zips, buttons and rivets have weight to them.

Wear is judged differently in this category. A faded, softened work jacket shows how the cloth has aged, and many people prefer that version to an unworn one. What matters is whether the construction is still intact.

The main workwear brands

A small number of brands account for most of the category, and each has its own strength.

Brand	Known for
Carhartt	The American company founded in Detroit in 1889. Duck canvas jackets, chore coats and bib overalls.
Dickies	The American company founded in Fort Worth, Texas, in 1922. Twill work trousers such as the 874, and work shirts.
Carhartt WIP	A separate European company that makes its own collections based on Carhartt designs.
Levi's	Denim jeans and jackets, worn both as workwear and as everyday clothing.

Carhartt is strongest in jackets and Dickies in trousers. The difference between Carhartt and Carhartt WIP is explained in Carhartt or Carhartt WIP: what is the difference?

The fabrics of workwear

Three cloths make up almost all workwear, and each ages in its own way.

• Duck canvas is a heavy plain-weave cotton. It is stiff when new, softens with use and drapes closer to the body without measuring smaller.
• Denim is a cotton twill with an indigo warp. It fades where it creases and thins at the points of most friction.
• Cotton twill and drill are the cloths of work trousers. They are lighter and smoother than duck canvas and hold their shape and colour longer.

How each cloth behaves, ages and should be checked is set out in Duck canvas, denim and drill.

How workwear fits

Work jackets were cut to go over other clothing. A jacket was drawn around a body already wearing a hooded sweatshirt, a flannel shirt and a thermal layer, so it is wide through the chest and relatively short in the body. Worn over a T-shirt, the same jacket looks oversized.

The size on the label is therefore a rough guide at best, because two jackets with the same letter can differ in chest width. The reliable method is to lay a garment that already fits flat, measure it, and compare that number with the stated measurements of the item. Work trousers are sized in inches, as waist and inseam, which makes them easier to compare. The method is explained in the guide to measuring clothing and, for Carhartt, in the Carhartt size guide.

Many women wear men's workwear in a smaller size. With the measurements stated for every item, a men's jacket and a women's item can be compared directly.

Wear and damage

In most categories wear lowers the value of an item. In workwear it often does not, provided the construction is intact. The distinction is between softening and failing.

Part of the item	Normal wear	Damage
Cloth	Fading, softening, even thinning	Light coming through the cloth, holes
Seams	Faded stitching	Split seams, loose stitching at stress points
Zip	Worn colour on the pull	Missing teeth, a slider that does not close
Ribbing	Slight fading	Ribbing that has lost its stretch

Five checks for every workwear item

1. The zip. A failed zip is the most common serious fault on a work jacket.
2. Cuff and hem ribbing. Ribbing that has lost its stretch does not recover.
3. Pocket corners and stress seams. These carry the load, so the stitching gives way there first.
4. The knees, on trousers. Thinning is normal, and a hole needs a repair.
5. The hardware. Rivets and buttons should be firm and cleanly finished.

Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.

Where to start with workwear

For a first item, a Carhartt jacket is the most direct choice, and it is easy to choose on its measurements. For trousers, Dickies is the stronger option. The jacket models are compared in Carhartt jackets compared, and the trousers are covered in the Dickies guide.

The full range is collected under workwear, with separate pages for men and women, and the brands have their own guides: the Carhartt guide and the Carhartt WIP guide. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between workwear and normal clothing?

Workwear is made from heavier cloth and reinforced at the seams and pockets that carry load. The cut is wider, because it was designed to be worn over several layers.

Is pre-owned workwear still strong?

Heavy cotton thins slowly and usually fails at the seams, the zip or the knees before the cloth itself. When those points are intact, a worn work jacket or pair of trousers has a long life left.

Should workwear be bought a size smaller?

Work jackets are cut wide for layering, so many people choose a size smaller when they wear one over a T-shirt. Comparing the chest measurement with a jacket that already fits is more reliable than the size on the label.

Can women wear men's workwear?

Many women wear men's work jackets and trousers in a smaller size. The stated measurements show how an item will fit, whichever collection it is in.