The sportswear guide: sweatshirts, fleece and track jackets
On pre-owned sportswear, the inside of the cloth, the graphic and the zip say more than the logo. How loopback, brushed fleece and reverse weave differ, how to read a print, what to check on a track jacket and how sizing works.
In this guide
Sportswear covers sweatshirts, hoodies, track jackets, T-shirts and track pants from brands such as Nike, Adidas, Champion, Russell Athletic and Reebok. On a pre-owned sportswear item, the inside of the cloth, the graphic and the zip say more than the logo on the front. How sportswear fits into the wider casual style is explained in the casual clothing guide.
Loopback, brushed fleece and reverse weave
Three constructions are common in sweatshirts. They differ in weight and in how they age, and the front of a sweatshirt does not show which one it is. The inside does.
| Construction | What the inside looks like | How it ages |
|---|---|---|
| Loopback cotton | Small visible loops | Keeps its shape and weight well |
| Brushed fleece | A soft, brushed surface | Softer at first, pills and flattens with washing |
| Reverse weave | Usually brushed, with the fabric running crosswise | Resists shrinking in length and is generally heavier |
Reverse weave is the construction most associated with Champion, which uses the name for its heavy sweatshirts. Side panels of ribbed knit under the arms are a common feature of it.
Reading a graphic
Sportswear often has a printed or embroidered logo, and the graphic shows how an item has been washed and worn.
- Even cracking across a print is normal ageing.
- Lifting at the edges is not. A print that peels away from the cloth loses more with every wash.
- Embroidery generally outlasts a print. It is checked for loose threads and puckering around the edges.
What to check on a track jacket
- The zip. A track jacket zip runs the full length and is used constantly, so it is run all the way up and down twice.
- The ribbing at the cuffs and hem. It should spring back. Slack ribbing does not recover.
- The collar. A stand-up collar should stand. A collar that has collapsed does not come back.
- The colour of each panel. Panels in different colours can fade at different rates, so the sleeves are compared with the body in daylight.
Each item is inspected, authenticated, cleaned and measured before it is added to the store. Each step is described in How leverene works.
Two details that are not on the label
One visible line of stitching at the hem and sleeve of a T-shirt or sweatshirt, rather than two, generally points to an older item. The weight of the cotton, felt simply by holding the item, generally points to its quality. Neither is proof on its own, and both should agree with the label and the overall condition of the item.
Sportswear sizing
Sportswear sizes differ between brands, periods and countries of manufacture. The size on the label is therefore only a starting point. Every item is measured at four points: chest, length, shoulders and sleeve. With raglan sleeves there is no shoulder seam, so there are three measurements instead of four. Items shown on a model state the model's height and usual size instead of the four measurements. Comparing those measurements with a sweatshirt that already fits is the reliable method, explained in the guide to measuring clothing.
Caring for sportswear
The care label inside the item has the final say. Sweatshirts and T-shirts with a print are washed cool and inside out, which protects the graphic, and dried flat or on a line rather than in a tumble dryer, which shrinks cotton and dries out prints. More detail by material is in the guide to washing and caring for clothing.
Where to start
On a sweatshirt, the cloth is the first thing to check. On a track jacket, the zip comes first. Sweatshirts and hoodies are collected under sweaters and hoodies and T-shirts under T-shirts and long sleeves. The brands have their own pages: Nike, Adidas, Champion, Russell Athletic and Reebok. The wider style is under casual. Because every item is pre-owned, most items are available only once.
Frequently asked questions
What is loopback cotton?
Loopback cotton is a sweatshirt fabric with small loops on the inside instead of a brushed surface. It keeps its shape and weight well over years of wear.
What is the difference between loopback and fleece?
Loopback leaves the loops on the inside of the fabric, while fleece brushes them into a soft surface. Fleece feels softer at first, while loopback keeps its shape longer.
What is reverse weave?
Reverse weave is a construction in which the fabric runs crosswise, so a sweatshirt resists shrinking in length. It is the construction most associated with Champion.
How can the age of a sweatshirt be told?
Single stitching at the hem and sleeves, the label and the weight of the cotton give an indication. Together they point to a period rather than an exact year.
